Insider Insight - What's on the Cutting Table.
We do a large majority of our cutting & sewing in our Woodfin Warehouse, located in an old Burlington Mill just outside of Asheville right on the French Broad River. We're generally here from 10-4 Monday - Friday and can schedule a time for you to come by and check us out if you'd like! Just email me (Corey) at Corey@spiritex.net to schedule a time.
Cutting multiple garments at work is a culmination of art and science muddled with a little finesse and some finagling. Our main cutter man has been in the apparel manufacturing business with his wife (who contract sews for us) for over 40 years, so you could say he knows a thing, or two.
Today we're cutting our Patton Tank, it's a fun take on a tank/muscle tee and a flattering fit for all body types (that wanna show off their arms of course). This particular piece has an easy fit, a curved bottom, and a not so low low neckline. I was the fit model for this one and I personally can't wait for one. It's just in time for summer! I begged for the first sample, but they wouldn't cave. It's ok, it was taupe and I want black anyway.
Inside his process:
First, the marker is made.This means that all of the pattern pieces within the full size range of the garment are laid out and fit together like a puzzle in order to achieve the most pieces yielded and the least waste possible. We do our markers a little different in that we're hyper aware of any additional space that is left open after the pattern pieces are put in. We utilize this space for cutting other garments that fit the gaps, like children's garments, scarves, bandanas, and whatever we feel goes within the colors that have already been laid. Generally speaking, we're able to squeeze as much out of our fabric as possible. After all is said and done, there are generally little tidbits left over that we donate to other crafters who go on to make dog toys, rugs/mats, textile art, etc. If you're feeling blue because you're a crafter and you want some tidbits too, just email me and we'll coordinate something with you!
After the marker is made, it's rolled back up and pushed out of the way while the fabric is spread. The spread is based on the amount of pieces desired on the cut ticket.
Once the spread is on the table, the marker is rolled out over top of the fabric layers and secured with staples. Thus begins the cutting. An Eastman Straight Blade Cutting knife is used to cut the stacks of fabric into the respective pattern piece. The finished bundles are tied and placed with the cut ticket, a finished sample, and all the trims to await sewing.